Rating new Barolos: Friendly and Rich 2017s Make an Impression

Winemakers in Barolo are just as surprised as I am about the quality of their nebbiolos from the 2017 vintage, considering the high temperatures and drought conditions for most of the summer in the Langhe and other parts of Italy. Yet, most of the almost 360 Barolos from the vintage I rated showed wonderful brightness and freshness as well as rich palates and ripe tannins. Some were even refined and vertical on the palate.

So far this year we have rated almost 470 Barolos, including late-release vintages such as 2008, 2009, 2011 and 2012, as well as the great trilogy of 2015, 2016 and 2017. The 2017s drink surprisingly well.

Conterno Fantino Barolo Castelletto “Vigna Pressenda” DOCG 2017

96 Points

“This is very structured with fantastic tannins that frame the wine. Dark fruit with ripe strawberries, as well as wet earth and dried black truffles. Full and chewy. Tight finish. Needs four or five years to open. Try after 2025.”

Conterno Fantino Barolo Mosconi “Vigna Ped” DOCG 2017

98 Points

“Plenty of red fruit and tar here with bark and mushroom as well. It’s full-bodied, yet tight and polished on the palate. Tight finish. Tar and burnt citrus to the fruit in the aftertaste. One of the best wines from here in years, this needs some bottle age to open and soften. Try after 2026.”

Conterno Fantino Barolo Ginestra “Vigna Sorì Ginestra” DOCG 2017

95 Points

“This is extremely perfumed with rose petal and orange zest to the ripe-strawberry and cherry character. Full and intense palate with layers of fruit and firm, dusty tannins. Chewy at the finish, but there’s plenty of fruit. Try after 2025.”

Conterno Fantino Barolo Ginestra “Vigna del Gris” DOCG 2017

96 Points

“This is extremely perfumed with rose petal and orange zest to the ripe-strawberry and cherry character. Full and intense palate with layers of fruit and firm, dusty tannins. Chewy at the finish, but there’s plenty of fruit. Try after 2025.”

Einaudi Barolo “Bussia” DOCG 2017

94 Points

“A creamy and juicy young red with lots of cherry, dried strawberry, black-tea and bark character. Full and polished with chewy tannins. Needs time. Try after 2025.”

Einaudi Barolo “Cannubi” DOCG 2017

94 Points

“A generous, fruity Barolo with ripe, polished tannins to the vivid fruit and citrusy acidity. It’s full-bodied and rather round with a soft, juicy finish. Very fresh. Subtle. Drink in 2024 and onwards.”

Einaudi Barolo Terlo “Vigna Costa Grimaldi” DOCG 2017

95 Points

“Subtle and refined with dried strawberries, flowers, cream and cedar. Medium body. Fine, creamy tannins and a flavorful finish. The tannins melt into the wine nicely. Drink in 2024.”

Einaudi Barolo “Ludo” DOCG 2017

94 Points

“A lot of fruit purity in the nose with ripe strawberries, flowers and some crushed stones. Full-bodied with a solid core of fruit and so much power, yet it’s polished and focused and not aggressive. Give it three or four years of bottle age. Plenty of potential here. Try after 2025.”

Marcarini Barolo “Brunate” DOCG 2017

96 Points

“This is a powerful red with a full body and lots of dried fruit, walnuts, smoke and dried flowers. Asphalt and tar, too. It’s full and very layered with round, chewy tannins and a rich finish. Needs time to soften and open. Try after 2024.”

Marcarini Barolo “La Serra” DOCG 2017

97 Points

“So much ash and dried-strawberry character. Burnt orange-peel undertones. Tar, too. It’s full-bodied with chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. Lots of rose petals. This needs four or five years to open, but nicely integrated now. Try after 2024.”

Marcarini Barolo del Comune di La Morra DOCG 2017

95 Points

“Aromas of dried strawberries, orange peel and white truffles follow through to a full-bodied, compact and tight palate with fine, dusty tannins and an intense finish. Hints of chocolate and toffee at the end. Really complex. Drink after 2024.”

By James Suckling  | jamessuckling.com

Read the Full Article